Enhanced Restaurant Review

The concept of a Brazilian steakhouse was unknown to me until not too long ago when a friend of mine mentioned the restaurant, Fogo de Chao. While Brazilian steakhouses are not actually ‘new,’ the idea of an all you can eat meat buffet seemed like something I definitely should have been notified about years ago. Chicago is home to three such Brazilian steakhouses: Brazzaz, Texas de Brazil, and Fogo de Chao.

On a recent Friday evening, I was invited to Fogo de Chao for a late-night meal, compliments of a good friend’s dad visiting from out of town. I mention this only because Fogo de Chao, and the two similar Brazilian establishments in this city, is far too expensive for my own casual dining experience. This restaurant is oriented towards special occasions or big parties given buffet plates cost nearly $50 a person. The one upside is the lunch buffet served daily for around $35 a plate.

Upon entering Fogo de Chao, one immediately notices the high ceilings, accommodating and friendly wait-staff, and comfortable atmosphere. I sat down and ordered a Tanqueray and Tonic, which was delivered promptly, and with the first sip I breathed a sigh of relief. Now THAT’S how a T&T is supposed to taste. The waiter returned to clear up any questions our table had regarding rules to this South American smorgasbord.

The first course consisted of an elegant salad bar filled to the brim with spreads, pastas, cheeses, and a variety of cured meats. Since I had heard about this place before, I was warned to go lightly on the salad bar because the real treat was still yet to come. I walked around the salad bar admiring the bright colors and exotic dishes. I decided on some butter lettuce topped with carrots, cucumbers and Italian dressing. I was determined to save as much room as I could for beef induced coma that was soon to follow.

I was not disappointed. We had our fill of the salad bar so it was on to the main course. Each person at the table is given a poker chip of sorts with red on one side, and green on the other. It’s pretty simple at this point. Flip the chip from red to green when you want to sample the various meats offered at Fogo de Chao. After you’ve acquired an adequate assortment of meats just flip the card back to red and you can enjoy your spoils in peace. This back and forth mentality reminded me of a game of ‘red-light, green-light,’ as I kept trying to see how fast the server would arrive once I flipped the chip to green.

The selection of meats is extensive, but most center on one of Brazil’s biggest exports, beef. Picanna, or what the servers called, ‘Brazilian Beef’ was the first cut I sampled. It was exceptional. Medium-rare with a marinade of just sea salt and garlic. No sooner had I finished my piece of steak than I was bombarded on all sides with skewers of meat. At first I was fairly intimidated by the huge swords of Alcatra, (top sirloin) Beef Ancho, (Prime Rib-Eye) and Filet Mingon, but I quickly said yes to each. So began my nearly hour-long battle with some of the most succulent red meat I had ever eaten.

As you may have gathered already, vegetarians will find little to appreciate when surrounded by smoldering carcasses as the aroma of bar-b-que permeates the air. Thankfully there was some diversity in types of meat as the night went on though. I was particularly fond of the chicken thighs, which fell off the bone, but was left fairly dissatisfied after trying the lamb chops. They were overcooked and tasted as if they had been dipped into salt brine prior to being served.

I continued to flip from red to green, anxious to try as many different kinds of meat as possible. Towards the middle of the meal, my eyes wandered towards the mashed potatoes waiting on the table, untouched. They were garnished with a paprika, cheese, chive topping. I took one bite and immediately found myself reaching for another. The creaminess and bite of these potatoes was so potent I found myself coming back to them throughout the meal, even after I convinced myself I was full. Equally pleasing were the deep-fried polenta and pan-seared bananas oozing with sugary syrup.

The evening began to wind down and everyone at the table looked ready to pass out. Desert was skipped because no one knew how to fit anymore sustenance down our gullets, but a strong Bailey’s and coffee still managed to make an appearances. I was left impressed by the wait-staff, swift with the drink orders and ready to supply a new plate if the remains of the fallen meat piled too high. There are no doggie bags supplied at Fogo de Chao, so make sure to get your fill. Don’t rush though, remember it is a buffet so you can stay until they kick you out, or die of a heart attack. Whichever comes first.